1950s salmon patties with remoulade sauce

Crush the crackers into fine crumbs, not a powder.

Put the canned salmon in a bowl and cover with the crumbs, a little mayonnaise and the egg. Mix and mash with a fork until evenly combined and the salmon is in small bits; leave in any soft bones.

Add chopped capers and minced green onion (optional), salt, black pepper and a few shakes of cayenne; mix gently so the onion is not bruised.

Press the mixture flat and even in the bowl and divide into four. Shape into thick patties with damp hands (or spoon four lumps into the pan and smash with a spatula).

Set on a plate dusted with cracker crumbs, dust the tops and press in. Rest three or four minutes while making the sauce.

Remoulade: mix mayonnaise, sour cream, a spoon of Dijon, a generous amount of pickle relish, black pepper, a big spoon of paprika, a spoon of sugar if the relish is dill, and chopped parsley and tarragon. Refrigerate.

Melt a generous amount of butter in a pan over medium heat. Fry the patties about three minutes per side until browned and crisp, giving them a half turn halfway through the first side; flip back briefly to re-crisp the first side.

Serve with chilled asparagus, a big spoon of remoulade on each patty, a shake of cayenne and a pinch of minced green onion.