Achari masala baingan

Cut each eggplant lengthwise from the base, keeping the stem end intact so it does not fall apart.

Rub salt and turmeric powder inside each eggplant and set aside.

Over medium-low heat, roast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, fennel seeds, fenugreek seeds, black peppercorns and green cardamoms, stirring constantly, until fragrant, without letting them darken or they turn bitter.

Take off the heat and grind in a mortar and pestle (shell the cardamoms first) to a slightly coarse powder; if using a spice grinder, cool the spices first.

Heat 4 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat and fry the eggplants without crowding, covered and on the high side, until the skin shrivels and they take a brown tinge, about half cooked; remove.

In a clean pan, heat 3 tablespoons of oil; add panch foron and a seeded dried red chili, and when the seeds splutter add the chopped onions with a pinch of salt and fry until golden.

Add a tablespoon each of grated garlic and ginger and fry about a minute.

Add a splash of water, then the Kashmiri red chili powder and turmeric, and cook about a minute.

Add the tomatoes with a pinch of salt and a splash of water; cover on medium heat 2 minutes, then another 2 minutes until they turn to mush.

Add the roasted spice blend, a teaspoon of sugar, about half a cup of water and a whole green chili; cover 3 minutes.

Add another half cup of water, the fried eggplants with their juices, and salt; cover 8 to 10 minutes until the eggplants are tender but not so soft the flesh falls into the sauce, checking with a paring knife.

Add chopped coriander leaves, cover a minute more.

Serve with a flat wide spoon, gravy first and the eggplants on top, with hot steamed rice.