Adobo-seared jurel with a chaya, nopal and arugula salad and red chile vinaigrette

Wash the chaya and cook it in salted water over high heat, about as long as kale or a little longer than Swiss chard; it must not be eaten raw.

Tear open the ancho chilies and shake out the seeds; stem the chipotles without tearing them.

Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium-low to a little higher, add rough-chopped garlic in big pieces and the chilies, and turn until the garlic is soft and the chilies blister and lighten from almost black to brown while the oil takes on their colour.

Put the chilies and garlic into the food processor without soaking. Grind allspice and black pepper in the molcajete and add them, with salt, vinegar and the water.

Blend and taste; it should be slightly spicy.

Drain the chaya in a colander.

Press the adobo through to hold back the chili skins, re-blending if too many come through. It should be salty, a little vinegary and a tiny bit spicy.

Spread a little of the adobo over the pieces of fish as a marinade.

Turn the rest into a vinaigrette by drizzling in olive oil and squeezing in sour orange juice.

Grill three nopales about 15 minutes until soft, and the knob onions for less time.

Slice the grilled nopales and knob onions.

Sear the fish marinated side down in a hot skillet a couple of minutes until browned, flip, and cook another minute or so.

Squeeze the water out of the chaya, cut it into smaller pieces, combine with arugula and mix in a little red chile vinaigrette by hand.

Toss the nopales and onions with three tablespoons of the dressing and a sprinkling of salt.

Crumble Queso de Chiapas over as a garnish and serve with the fish.