Alfredo y Pepe with fettuccine

Melt the butter in a warm pot, whisk in the flour and stir until lumpless, then sizzle on low about one minute to cook off the raw flour taste.

Whisk in the half and half to prevent lumps and bring to a low simmer until the flour has thickened it; turn the heat very low or off while the pasta cooks.

Cook a pound of fettuccine, spinning and twirling it for the first two to three minutes so the strands stay separate.

After about five minutes of gentle simmering the sauce is stable enough to hold the cheeses in emulsion.

Kill the heat, add the salt and black pepper, then the grated Pecorino and Parmesan, and whisk until melted on residual heat; excessive heat will seize the cheese and make it grainy.

Drop the drained fettuccine in with about half a cup of reserved pasta water, toss, and shimmy the pot aggressively to release starch. Err on the thin side, as it thickens.

Garnish with more grated cheese, about a dozen cranks of black pepper and a drizzle of olive oil.