Aloo kala chana masala (black chickpea and potato curry)

Soak one cup of black chickpeas overnight or 8+ hours in plenty of water with a tablespoon of salt; discard the water and rinse.

Pressure cook with half a teaspoon of salt, three cups of hot water and a pinch of baking soda for 35 minutes; release pressure naturally and skim off the white scum.

Mix turmeric, cumin, coriander and Kashmiri chilli powder with three to four tablespoons of water into a paste.

Heat 2 to 3 tbsp oil in a pot over medium-high until shimmering; add garlic, ginger and cloves, then onions with a sprinkle of salt, and fry until golden brown at the edges.

Add the tomatoes and fry a few minutes without letting them go mushy; cool completely, then blend to a smooth puree.

In the rinsed, dried pot, heat 2 tbsp oil and about 2 tsp ghee; add the potatoes, with a splash of water if anything sticks.

Add the spice paste and stir about a minute, then the blended puree; cover over medium-low heat about five minutes.

Mash a little of the drained chickpeas to thicken the gravy, then add all the chickpeas with their water, salt, a whole chili and kasuri methi.

Cover and cook about 15 minutes until the potatoes are tender, adding some coriander leaves partway.

Add garam masala and a teaspoon of sugar, cover 2 minutes.

Finish with a sprinkle of lemon or lime juice and coriander leaves; serve with rice, roti or crusty bread.