Anchoïade, an anchovy and garlic dip from the south of France

Prepare the mise en place: chopped garlic and shallots, chopped parsley with a little fresh basil, the anchovy fillets, vinegar and olive oil.

Use a mortar with a coarse, abrasive inside surface, and a pestle with an unpolished end.

Put the garlic, shallots, parsley and basil in the mortar with the vinegar. There is no set order.

Grind in a circular motion, bringing everything back to the middle; do not tap straight down. Scrape the sides in with a rubber spatula as you go.

Add the anchovy fillets and grind slowly. Anchovies reduce to a pulp very easily -- keep grinding to a smooth anchovy paste. The result is a thick aromatic base, not a soup.

As for a mayonnaise, work in the olive oil a little at a time, slowly, until the mixture suddenly becomes coherent and holds as one paste.

Keep it thick and paste-like: it has to hold on toasted bread or crudités.

A food processor will take everything down much finer; the mortar leaves a coarser, paste-like texture with a shine of olive oil through it.

Transfer to a container and rest in the fridge at least 10 to 15 minutes to let the flavour come out. It keeps longer if needed.