Apple pie (Fannie Farmer, 1896)

Form the butter into a circular piece while it is still waxy; work quickly so it does not melt. (Washing the butter is skipped: pasteurized butter is already washed.)

Combine flour and salt in a bowl; work in the lard with the fingertips.

Add a little cold water to moisten the dough. Toss on a board dredged sparingly with flour and roll a quarter inch thick, a little wider than long.

Place the butter in the centre of the lower half; fold the upper half over and press the edges to exclude air. Fold the right side over, turn the paste halfway round, cover and let stand 5 minutes.

Pat and roll again, longer than wide; fold from the ends to the centre in three layers; cover and let stand another 5 minutes; turn and repeat.

Finish integrating the fat and flour by smearing. Wrap and chill.

Pare, core and slice the apples; toss with lemon juice so they do not brown.

Split the dough in half; roll one half a quarter inch thick and line a nine-inch pie dish. Chill.

Lay apple slices in a row half an inch from the edge, working toward the centre until the plate is covered.

Mix sugar, nutmeg, salt, grated lemon rind, lemon juice and a little cinnamon by hand; sprinkle over the apples, add the remaining apples and the rest of the sugar mix.

Dampen the edge with water, lay on the top crust and press the edges together. Mark the edge with a fork and thumb; cut teardrop-shaped vents in the centre.

Push the forgotten teaspoon of butter in through the vents.

Bake on the bottom rack at 425F for the first 10 minutes.

Lower the oven to 350F for 30 to 40 minutes more, until the crust is browned and the apples are tender when pierced through a vent with a skewer.

Serve warm; optionally with a wedge of sharp cheddar warmed in the microwave about 15 seconds.