Ayam bakar (Indonesian grilled chicken)

Cut each chicken thigh in the centre down to the bone at a 90-degree angle, then make two more cuts about half an inch away on either side.

Slice the shallots and the tender parts of the lemongrass; add garlic, ginger and lime leaves (or a little lime zest).

Grind everything in a food processor or blender to a very fine puree, scraping down the sides a few times.

Spread the puree in a skillet over medium-high heat with a couple tablespoons of vegetable oil and let it start to caramelize; add coriander, cumin, a touch of turmeric, white pepper and salt.

Cook, stirring, three or four minutes until the shallots soften and the spices start to toast onto the bottom of the pan.

Add a big spoon of sambal, brown sugar, soy sauce, a couple of bay leaves and a couple of cups of chicken broth; stir.

Bring to a boil, stirring to deglaze the bottom; add the chicken skin side down, reduce the heat to low or between low and medium-low, and baste.

Cover and simmer gently 15 minutes, then uncover and flip.

Simmer uncovered another 15 minutes or so, basting or flipping to coat; turn skin side down for about five minutes, then back over.

Aim for the chicken to cook through as the sauce reduces to thick but still a little saucy; raise the heat to medium if the sauce lags. The chicken should be tender, not falling off the bone.

Remove the chicken to a plate and rest it while the sauce reduces a few more minutes; reduce the heat to low and return the chicken.

Char the chicken over hot coals, skin side down about 60 seconds before flipping; move pieces away from flare-ups and give some more time on the skin side until well charred.

Optionally brush on a little sauce, then pull off the grill and place the chicken back on the sauce.

Garnish with sliced Fresno chilies and cilantro leaves; serve over rice with a few spoons of sauce and more sambal on top.