Baba ganoush

Put a whole eggplant on the dying coals of a grill and leave it, lid on, until the fire is cold and the eggplant completely soft and smoky. Alternatively, poke holes and broil it, grill it directly, or turn it over a stove burner until blackened all over.

Pull out the seed pods with the fingers if there are many; some left in are fine.

Drain a freshly cooked eggplant in a salad spinner so the baba ganoush is not runny; one that has sat in the fridge has already shed its liquid.

Pound the garlic cloves in their skins and peel; optionally trim the root end and remove any green sprout.

Mash the garlic with lemon juice and a pinch of kosher salt; the acidity hinders allicin formation, so the garlic flavour is tamer.

Drizzle in a little olive oil, as for an aioli, to bring the garlic to a smooth paste.

Squeeze lemon over the eggplant, add the garlic paste and the sesame paste.

Whisk with a fork, keeping it chunky (a food processor gives it smooth), then emulsify in olive oil a little at a time, as for mayonnaise, with the bowl steadied on a towel over a saucepan, until it will take no more; it becomes creamier, not greasy.

Taste; add a touch more olive oil, another hit of lemon, and more salt.

Spread on a plate, make a well of extra olive oil and finish with parsley. Serve with bread.