Baingan bharta (fire-roasted mashed eggplant)

Choose a large, firm-but-not-too-firm eggplant with smooth shiny skin. Rinse and wipe dry.

Cut two slits and push a piece of garlic into each; rub about a teaspoon of oil all over.

Roast over a high gas flame, first standing on the stem end, then turning little by little until the skin shrivels and starts to peel off. Alternatives: a cast iron skillet on an electric stove, under the broiler, or on a grill.

Put it in a bowl, cool a little, and peel while still warm, dipping the fingers in water. Leave any small bits of charred skin and keep the juice; cut off the stem end.

Mash the eggplant with the softened garlic using a potato masher or the back of a spoon.

Heat 3 tbsp oil on medium; lower to low and add the mustard seeds and cumin seeds; let them splutter.

Add the finely chopped onions and a quarter teaspoon of salt; cook until golden and pale, not browned much. Add chopped garlic and stir a few minutes.

Add the tomatoes, a quarter teaspoon salt, a quarter teaspoon hing (not into very hot oil, which can turn it bitter) and the turmeric; cover on medium until the tomatoes soften but are not mushy.

Add the eggplant, optional chopped green chillies, three quarters of a teaspoon of salt, the ground coriander and the smoked paprika.

Finish with plenty of fresh coriander leaves; serve with roti, toasted bread or steamed rice.