Baingan bharta (smoky eggplant with peas)

Put the whole eggplant under the broiler until completely black on the outside and really soft, about 45 minutes to an hour, for a smoky flavour. (Microwaving works but gives no smoky flavour.)

Open the eggplant and dig out the soft flesh with a spoon, avoiding the ash. The eggplant can be roasted a day ahead and the flesh refrigerated.

Heat enough oil to cover the bottom of the pot. Add the cumin seeds and stir until they bubble, crackle, darken slightly and smell fragrant.

Add the ground coriander and turmeric for about 10 seconds only, then add the onion straight away to drop the temperature so the spices do not burn.

Add garlic, ginger and the seeded jalapeno with a little salt; cook until the onion is partially soft.

Add the tomatoes and cook down until the tomatoes are soft and the onions translucent.

Add the eggplant and stir, letting the stirring tear it apart. Add the frozen peas and the cayenne pepper.

Add a little water and a little more salt. Simmer covered on low heat, about 15 minutes, until the peas take on a yellow tint from the turmeric.

Taste and adjust the salt; the seasoning should be strong because it is eaten with rice or bread.

Finish with fresh cilantro. Serve as a dip with bread or crackers, over rice, or as a side.