Baked mac and cheese with a mornay of aged cheeses

Grate the pecorino on the fine side of a box grater so the dry cheese melts.

Grate the gruyere on the medium holes.

Remove the washed rind from the taleggio and chop it.

Melt the butter in a two-quart saucepan, whisk in the flour and cook about a minute over high heat to remove the raw taste.

Once the roux is just golden, stir in the whole milk, bring to a simmer and stir constantly as it thickens so it does not scorch.

Drop the heat to low and add the cheeses oldest to youngest: pecorino, then gruyere, then chopped taleggio; stir two to three minutes until evenly melted.

Whisk in the mascarpone to loosen the sauce and take out the graininess.

Add black pepper, salt and a few rips of nutmeg, whisk to combine, then cover to stop a skin forming.

Boil a pound of mac in salty water five minutes, to al dente, and drain.

Combine the pasta and all of the mornay in a large bowl and stir.

Pour into a deep nine by 13 and top with grated gruyere and pecorino.

Bake at 375F for 35 to 40 minutes, until bubbly and lightly golden brown.

Rest 15 minutes, then cut.