Banh mi burger: grilled five-spice beef patty in a scooped sandwich roll with secret sauce and quick-pickled daikon and carrot

Season the ground chuck with soy sauce, fish sauce, black pepper and five spice; mix with a fork about half a minute, then by hand just until it comes together without overworking.

Pat into a ball, cover and chill until well chilled; cold meat gives a better texture.

Mix mayonnaise with a big spoon of hoisin and a little sriracha; refrigerate.

Split the rolls at about a 45 degree angle without cutting through, pull out about half the crumb, and toast on a baking sheet in a hot oven about 10 minutes.

With wet fingers, form two patties the length and size of the rolls, since the meat contracts on the grill; chill again.

Cut the daikon into matchsticks on a mandolin and the carrots by hand: thin slices about an eighth inch, stacked and cut across every eighth inch.

Toss the daikon and carrot in seasoned rice vinegar as a quick pickle and refrigerate; slice cucumber and jalapeno fresh.

Grill the 8-ounce burgers over very hot coals about 4 minutes per side for medium rare, optionally giving a quarter turn after a couple minutes; check doneness by feel, when it springs back.

Slather the toasted rolls generously with the sauce; layer cucumber and jalapeno rings, nestle in the patty, stuff in the pickled carrot and daikon, and top with cilantro.