Banh mi

Serve the fresh herbs as whole leaves and sprigs with the stems on, not chiffonade; a platter of them sits on the Vietnamese table at almost every family meal.

Choose a very light, airy baguette with plenty of crust, or pull some of the inside out of a heavier one.

Spread a little mayonnaise inside.

Add a small amount of the pre-grilled pork, about an ounce and a half rather than three ounces.

For the pork use shoulder or butt with the fat left on; partially freeze it and slice it very thinly along the grain, not against it, or it falls apart on the grill.

Shred the carrot and daikon very small on a mandolin so it is easy to eat without a knife and fork.

Put a generous amount of the marinated carrot and daikon into the sandwich, about a quarter cup.

Marinate them in vinegar, sugar and a little salt. For volume service, take pre-cut vegetables, wash them well, drain them completely, cover them with a solution of vinegar, water and a little salt and refrigerate; kept clean they stay crisp for a couple of weeks.

Add cilantro.

Add the chunky cut cucumber and the very thinly sliced jalapeno, not too much. No tomatoes: they are too watery and blend the flavours.

Put some of the fresh herbs on top and close it up. Keep it thin and lightly filled — the common mistake is packing it Western style.

Cut it on a slight slant to serve; a small noodle salad on the side balances the plate.

In service, split the bread most of the way, put the pre-grilled meat in, heat it about 30 seconds to warm the meat and just toast the bread without browning, then add all the vegetables.