Barbecue pork chops

Dissolve about a cup and a half of kosher salt, or three quarters of a cup of table salt, in four quarts of water.

Add the pork chops, cover and refrigerate at least one hour and up to five.

Build a two zone fire: a very hot fire on one side of a charcoal grill, or half the burners on high on a gas grill.

Stand the brined chops up on their bones and pierce them twice with long skewers.

Cut two small slices through the sinew of the fat cap of each chop so it does not curl.

Set the chops bone side down on the cool side with space between them and probe to about 115F.

At 115F remove the skewers, lay the chops flat on the hot side and brush on layer after layer of barbecue sauce, flipping continually, until they reach 145F internally.

Rest them on a baking sheet for three minutes, then move to a carving board.

Brush on one last layer of barbecue sauce before cutting.

Indoor version: combine a tablespoon of dark brown sugar, a teaspoon of paprika, half a teaspoon of smoked paprika, half a teaspoon of ground coriander, a teaspoon of ground cumin and several twists of pepper.

Pat the brined chops as dry as possible and coat them generously with the rub on all sides, including the fat cap and bone.

Whisk half a cup of ketchup with half a finely grated small onion, one to two tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce, half a teaspoon of smoked paprika, two tablespoons of Dijon and a tablespoon or two of dark brown sugar, then simmer at least 30 minutes.

Heat two tablespoons of vegetable oil over medium-high in a nonstick pan and brown the rubbed chops two at a time without crowding.

Probe the side and pull them at about 130F.

Wipe out the pan, heat another tablespoon or two of oil, brush the chops with sauce and lay them sauce side down, saucing and flipping until crusted and 145F internally.

Rest and serve with extra barbecue sauce.