Beef pho

Lay the bones on a foil-lined baking sheet without touching, spray or rub with oil, and roast at 425F for 30 to 40 minutes until deep brown; convection is better.

Halve the ginger; quarter the onions with the skin on; coat in oil on a foil-lined baking sheet.

Broil the aromatics 10 to 12 minutes, turning occasionally, until charred but not ash.

Sear the chuck roast in a ripping hot pan with the oil until deep brown on every side, about two to three minutes per side; set aside.

Put the bones in a large stockpot and cover with the cold water; roasting replaces parboiling.

Bring slowly to a light simmer without boiling, skimming the foam and scum intermittently.

Add the charred onions and ginger, the seared chuck, the toasted cloves, star anise, cardamom, coriander and cinnamon, the fish sauce and the rock sugar.

Simmer uncovered for two hours.

Remove the chuck roast and simmer another two hours, skimming any fat.

Remove the bones and strain through a mesh strainer into a large bowl.

Season with fish sauce until salty to taste and balance with a couple of pinches of sugar.

Wrap the cilantro stems in cheesecloth, tie with twine, and steep in the hot broth 15 minutes, then remove.

If making ahead, cool to room temperature and refrigerate up to five days. Meat and marrow from the bones can be crisped in a pan and used.

Cook the rice noodles to package instructions and rinse well. Toss picked cilantro, Thai basil and mint into an herb salad.

Thinly slice the chilies, the flank steak across the grain (freezing helps) and the white onion.

Put noodles in the bowl with raw sliced steak and cooked meat; pour boiling hot broth over; top with onion, chilies, herb salad and lime wedges.

Serve with chili sauce and hoisin sauce on the side for dipping.