Beer-braised lamb shanks

Season the shanks generously with salt and pepper on both sides, tapping them on the paper to pick up excess seasoning.

Brown over medium-high in a little olive oil in a deep pan where they just fit, about 5 minutes; remove.

Reduce to medium; add chopped celery, carrots and onions, minced garlic and a big pinch of salt; cook a few minutes so the vegetable moisture deglazes the pan.

Stir in the tomato paste and cook a minute.

Add the beer and rosemary; bring to a simmer on high and return the shanks.

Cover, reduce to low and simmer gently until very tender, about 2.5 to 3 hours, turning after about an hour.

Two-day method: simmer 2 hours, cool to room temperature and refrigerate overnight.

Lift off the solidified fat (optional).

Bring back to a simmer covered over low, turn, and simmer until the meat is just about to fall off the bone, about 45 minutes.

Remove the shanks and keep warm; reduce the sauce on high by about half.

Season with salt and cayenne; spoon over the shanks set on spring onion mashed potatoes; finish with sliced spring onions.