Black bean burgers with chipotle mayo

Drain and rinse two 15-ounce cans of black beans to remove most of the starchy liquid; shake dry.

Spread in a single layer on a sheet tray and bake in a 350F oven about 20 minutes, not to roast but to dehydrate, until splitting open and dry at the edges; this gives a meaty bite instead of mush.

Halve the onion pole to pole, remove the skin and tough first layer, and cut it up.

Saute the onion in a couple tablespoons of oil with a pinch of salt (with a diced poblano if using) until mostly softened.

Smash and chop three cloves of garlic; add to the onions and cook only 20 to 30 seconds until fragrant, since garlic burns faster than onion.

Pulse about three-quarters of a cup of roasted salted cashews in a food processor; pulsing chops more evenly than running it.

Chipotle mayo: in a mini chopper, blend a clove of garlic, one chipotle, a couple of teaspoons of adobo sauce and a third to half a cup of mayonnaise.

Pulse the dried black beans with about half a cup of crumbled cotija in the food processor a few times.

Combine with the onion mixture, chipotle, cashews, a couple tablespoons of mayonnaise, half to three-quarters of a cup of panko, an egg and the chopped roasted Hatch chilies; fold until a cohesive mass. It can rest overnight in the fridge and is easier to handle the next day.

With wet hands form patties of about four ounces, slightly wider than the bun; they do not shrink.

Preheat a grill over moderately high heat. Brush one side of the patty with oil, place oil side down, brush the top. Toast the buns.

Top with roasted chilies and a slice of pepper Jack; spread chipotle mayo on the bun and add onions and arugula.

Cook three to four minutes on the first side for good searing, then a couple of minutes on the second, five or six minutes in all.