Black Forest cake

Heat the oven to 350F and line and spray two 8-inch pans.

Whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt together in a large bowl and set aside.

In another large bowl combine the cocoa powder and espresso powder.

Pour in two thirds of a cup of hot water while whisking and whisk until fully dissolved; the hot water blooms the cocoa.

Whisk in the milk, oil and sour cream.

Whisk in the eggs, cracked into a bowl first, then the vanilla.

Pour all of the cocoa mixture into the flour and whisk just until the flour disappears and there are no lumps.

Divide the batter evenly between the two pans, weighing them to check; optionally wrap damp cake strips around the pans.

Bake at 350F for 30 to 35 minutes, until the centres spring back when gently pressed.

Cool in the pans 20 minutes, then invert and cool completely on a wire rack.

Pit and halve the cherries.

Toss the cherries with the sugar and the Kirsch and macerate 30 minutes to an hour, stirring occasionally.

Drain the cherries and reserve two thirds of a cup of the sweetened Kirsch liquid, topping up with water or more Kirsch if there is not enough.

Cut each cake layer in half horizontally to make four thin layers, reserving the two flat cut surfaces for the bottom and the top of the cake.

Whip the cold heavy cream with the powdered sugar on medium one minute, then medium high about two minutes to soft peaks; add the vanilla or Kirsch and whip to firmer peaks, watching closely. If it overwhips, mix in a little more cream.

Set the first layer cut side up on the plate, brush or spoon about three tablespoons of the cherry liquid over it, spread about three quarters of a cup of whipped cream and scatter about a third of the cherries, which also hold the layers up.

Repeat with the next two layers, three to four tablespoons of liquid, whipped cream and a third of the cherries each, then set the last layer on top.

Frost the outside with the remaining whipped cream, coaxing it down the sides gently and smoothing with a bench scraper; whipped cream is delicate, so use light pressure.

Shave curls of chocolate off a bar with a vegetable peeler and press them gently onto the bottom third of the cake and sprinkle some on top.

For the optional ganache, chill the cake 30 minutes first.

Make the ganache from 80 grams of finely chopped chocolate and a quarter cup of hot cream, microwaved and mixed, and pipe a ring round the top edge, encouraging some drips.

Pipe dollops of the reserved cup of whipped cream with a closed star tip and top each with one of eight stemmed cherries.