Blanched spring asparagus with handmade anchovy-tarragon aioli

Peel the stalks of thick asparagus, which can be fibrous; snap off the woody ends where they feel woody. Thin, young asparagus need not be peeled.

Bring water to a boil and salt it aggressively, saltier than pasta water.

Set up a cold water bath to chill the asparagus fast; running it under the tap or spreading it on a sheet tray also works.

Blanch the asparagus in the boiling water, about a minute and a half by eye, until bright green, then chill in the water bath.

Pound garlic in a mortar and pestle with a touch of lemon juice, which tames its pungency, and a little salt as an abrasive.

Add the egg yolk and grind to a paste, then add a bit of Dijon mustard.

Add good extra virgin olive oil slowly while pounding; once the emulsion is stable, oil can go in faster. Adding it too fast all at once breaks it.

Smash salted anchovies into the sauce to a paste.

Taste; season with black pepper and add more olive oil.

Rinse the tarragon, shake dry, and add it to the aioli.

If it gets too thick or gloppy, pound or whisk in a little water to loosen it before it breaks.

Dry the asparagus on paper towels and plate; spoon the aioli into a serving bowl.

Leftover aioli keeps in the fridge four or five days; the garlic and citrus flavour changes after that.