Boat noodles (kuay teow reua) with pork, meatballs and blood-thickened broth

Cover pork neck bones with water, bring to a simmer and simmer gently about 30 minutes.

Toast crushed cinnamon stick, star anise and coriander seeds in a dry skillet over medium-high heat until slightly charred; cool, then put them in a soup infusion bag or cheesecloth with galangal slices and cilantro roots.

Skim the scum off the broth; add the spice bag, white pepper, onion, crushed garlic and daikon, and the pandan leaf folded and tied into a knot to bruise it.

Season with soy sauce, Golden Mountain or Maggi sauce, Thai fermented soybean paste, black soy sauce, fish sauce, white vinegar and rock sugar.

Simmer gently another hour and 15 minutes, topping up with water to keep the bones submerged.

Soak dried noodles in room-temperature water until pliable; fresh and instant noodles go straight in before serving.

Thinly slice pork shoulder and marinate with soy sauce and a little sugar, 10 to 15 minutes.

Cut large store-bought meatballs into bite-sized pieces.

For a shortcut chili vinegar, mix sambal oelek with white vinegar.

Remove the spice bag, vegetables (keep the daikon to eat) and bones. Taste and make the broth slightly too strong with salt or sugar, since the noodles dilute it.

Cook the marinated pork in the broth inside a skimmer, stirring, under a minute; do not overcook. Add the meatballs to heat through, cover and set aside.

Pick the tender meat off the bones.

Bring the biggest pot of water to a boil. Portion the soaked noodles before cooking, since raw noodles separate easily.

Blanch a portion of noodles with bean sprouts and water spinach in a noodle strainer for five seconds; extend to 10 to 15 seconds if the water has stopped boiling. The noodles should be slightly chewy, not undercooked.

Bring the broth to a boil and pour in the blood while stirring so it does not cook into clumps; the broth turns thick and rich.

Ladle broth over the noodles; add the meatballs, sliced pork and picked meat, chopped cilantro, green onions, torn Thai basil, and fried garlic and garlic oil.

Serve with crispy pork rind, chili flakes and chili vinegar at the table.