Bob's Kebabs

Mix a spice blend of ground cumin, a little coriander, Aleppo chili flakes, a generous amount of kosher salt, a little shake of cayenne and a very small pinch of cinnamon.

Push about one third of the spice mixture aside: two thirds seasons the meat and the reserved third goes on the outside before grilling.

Mix a pound of ground lamb with two thirds of the spice mix and two tablespoons of very cold fresh water, mashing with one clean hand until thoroughly combined; over-working is fine here, since the cooked meat should be slightly springy.

Cover in plastic and chill about an hour, so it handles better and the spices work.

Soak the wooden skewers in water for about an hour.

Take one eighth of the mixture, a two ounce portion, and roll it into a smooth ball with fingers wetted in the skewer water.

Shape it into an oval, skewer it right through the centre, squeeze it out to about three inches and taper both ends down to a point so it stays on the skewer.

Wrap the formed kebabs and chill them again.

Yogurt sauce: mix plain Greek yogurt with very finely crushed garlic, freshly chopped parsley, freshly squeezed lemon juice and enough cold water to thin it to the consistency wanted; no salt, since the meat is well seasoned.

Add a spoon of sumac to the reserved third of the spice mix and season the kebabs all over with it.

Grill over charcoal about 10 to 12 minutes in total, turning about every three minutes so the whole surface faces the heat, to about 135 internal, or until they go from mushy to firm and springy.

Serve on a platter of tomatoes, cucumbers and red onions dressed lightly with salt and olive oil, scattered with more parsley and dusted with more sumac, with grilled pita and the yogurt sauce spooned over.