Bolognese ragu finished with full cream milk

Sweat equal parts celery, carrot and onion in olive oil until soft and sweet. Keep the soffritto chunky for Bolognese; do not blend it.

Cook gently on medium-low heat for about four hours. With the lid on, stir every half hour so nothing sticks and little or no water is needed; with the lid off, add boiling water as it dries and stir more often.

Whichever method, take the lid off for the last hour so the sauce reduces and dries.

Add fatty pancetta with the soffritto if using.

Add the beef, veal and pork mince and cook until just a little darker than gray; do not brown it dark or overcook it, since it cooks four hours in the sauce.

Add the wine to deglaze and let it evaporate until only the grapes, not the alcohol, can be smelled, 5 to 10 minutes.

Only once the wine has evaporated, add a little tomato paste, passata and some peeled tomatoes, keeping the tomato in balance; it is a meat sauce, not a red sauce.

At the end, stir in full cream milk, starting small and adding more if needed, to balance the acidity, bind the fats and make the sauce creamy. Do not use cream.

Serve with tagliatelle or another flat egg pasta, or rigatoni, not spaghetti.