Bouchee a la reine

Truss the chicken: run a long string under the bird at the drumsticks, cross it, loop it round each drumstick, pull it back, turn the bird over, anchor the wings, take several turns and tie it off.

Rub a cut lemon all over the chicken to keep the flesh white while it poaches.

Lay the carrots, leek and celery in the bottom of the pan as a bed of vegetables, sit the whole chicken on top and tuck the clove-studded onions down the sides with the bouquet garni, juniper and a few peppercorns.

Pour in just enough water to cover the chicken -- use a pan it only just fits in or the broth will be diluted.

Bring to the boil on high heat, add a pinch of salt at the first boil, drop to a simmer and cook covered for about 40 minutes.

Meanwhile prepare the salpicon garnish: trim the mushrooms, cut them into slices, then batons, then dice them to a brunoise.

Rough-chop the mushroom trimmings and add them to the chicken pot for flavour.

Cook the diced mushrooms white: a little water, one or two squeezes of lemon and a few dices of butter, brought to the boil.

Simmer the mushrooms 3 to 4 minutes, then take them off the heat and reserve.

Melt 40 g of butter and mix in 40 g of flour to make the roux.

Cook the roux on very low heat, stirring constantly, for 1 to 2 minutes and never more than 3, to cook out the floury taste; then take it off the heat and let it cool completely.

Lift the cooked chicken out onto a tray.

Skim the fat off the broth by dipping a kitchen towel into it as the fat rises, and lifting the fat out.

Bring the clear broth back to the boil and reduce it a little to concentrate the flavour.

Skin the chicken, detach both breasts and dice them small, working with the meat cold if you can. Reserve.

Pour the boiling broth onto the cold roux and slacken it before the heat goes on.

On medium-low heat, work in three quarters of the broth, then the rest, stirring constantly.

Add the mushrooms with a little of their juice, then the morels, then the diced chicken and two or more tablespoons of cream.

Salt, taste and correct, then leave it to cook 20 to 25 minutes to reduce and thicken to a pourable consistency.

Stir in a little cognac and a little parsley for colour.

Off the heat, slacken an egg yolk with a little of the hot sauce, stir it back in and give it a final whisk.

Warm the vol-au-vent and cut off its little lid to empty it.

Put two or three cubes of reserved chicken in the bottom of each casing, then fill generously with sauce, mushroom and chicken, letting it overflow a little.

Set the little pastry lid back on top and serve.