Brioche loaf

Make the sponge: whisk the warm milk at about 120F with a tablespoon of sugar, the active dry yeast and half a cup of flour.

Cover loosely and leave at room temperature 30 to 45 minutes until it has a big foamy head; if there is no foam the yeast is dead, so start again.

Add three room temperature eggs, the remaining two tablespoons of sugar, the salt and the remaining 300 grams of flour to the sponge.

Mix with the dough hook on medium low about a minute, scraping the bowl down once or twice.

Continue mixing on medium low about eight minutes until the dough is shiny, elastic and silky.

On the lowest setting add the softened butter a tablespoon at a time, waiting until each is fully incorporated before the next.

Increase to medium low and mix another eight to ten minutes until smooth and elastic and tacky but not sticking to a finger.

Cover loosely and rise at room temperature about 45 minutes until doubled.

Punch the dough down and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface.

Divide equally into three pieces and roll each into a nine-inch rope, gently rolling and stretching.

Variation: for a pull-apart net style loaf, divide into six to eight pieces, roll them like dinner rolls and drop them into the loaf pan.

Braid the three ropes, pinching the ends together, tuck the ends underneath and transfer into a buttered loaf pan of about eight and a quarter inches.

Cover loosely and rise about 20 minutes, setting the oven to 375F.

Whisk one tablespoon of water with one large egg and brush the risen loaf for full coverage without deflating it.

Bake at 375F for 35 to 45 minutes until deep golden, tenting loosely with foil after about 25 minutes.

Rest five minutes in the pan, turn out onto a wire rack and cool at least 30 minutes before slicing.