Brioche sweet rolls

Whisk the flour, sugar, yeast and kosher salt together in the bowl of a stand mixer.

Add the four room temperature eggs, fit the dough hooks and mix and knead four to six minutes until the dry ingredients are incorporated and the dough starts to look smooth.

With the mixer on low, add the butter one or two small pieces at a time, raising the speed a little after each addition and waiting until the dough clears the sides before adding more. Anywhere from four to eight minutes between additions.

Once all the butter is in, knead on medium five to eight minutes until the dough nearly cleans the bowl and is soft, smooth and silky.

On an unfloured counter, work the dough into a taut ball: smoothest side up, pass it hand to hand pinching the edges against the table.

Put the boule seam side down in a generously buttered bowl, cover with plastic wrap and rise 60 to 90 minutes at room temperature until doubled.

Punch it down and perform six to nine folds in towards the centre, working round the dough, then pull it taut again.

Rise one more hour, or refrigerate 12 to 48 hours for better flavour and texture.

Divide the dough in half. Roll one half into a rectangle as wide as the loaf pan, roll it up lengthwise with the seams underneath and put it in a buttered and floured loaf pan.

Cover loosely and rest one hour 45 minutes to two and a half hours, until roughly doubled and not springing back fully when poked.

Brush with beaten egg and bake at 375F about 45 minutes, rotating halfway and tenting with foil if it browns too fast. Done at 195 to 210F internal and a hollow thump.

Cool the loaf completely, about an hour and a half, before slicing.

Butter and flour miniature tube pans. Divide the remaining half of the dough into four, roll each into a ball, punch a hole through the centre like a bagel and press it firmly into the pan so no bubbles are trapped underneath.

Cover with plastic wrap and rest 60 to 90 minutes until they pass the poke test.

Set on a rimmed baking sheet, brush with beaten egg and bake at 375F for 25 to 35 minutes. Remove from the tins immediately or the brioche goes soggy.

Cool completely, then drape the glaze over the top and let it cascade down the sides.

Giant version: pound two batches of dough out into a disk, coat a full-size tube pan with butter and flour, punch a hole in the centre with a biscuit cutter, drop the disk in and press down.

Wrap in plastic and let roughly double, then bake at 350F for close to an hour, tenting with foil as it browns, to an internal 200F.

Cool completely on a wire rack at least three hours, then pour an extra big batch of glaze over the upside down brioche.