British fish cakes with tartar sauce

Mix the tartar sauce: mayonnaise, chopped capers, horseradish, Dijon, chopped parsley and tarragon, minced shallot and cayenne. Taste; it should be sharp and intense. Refrigerate so the flavours develop.

Cut the skinless, boneless cod into one to one-and-a-half inch strips.

Put a little milk and a bay leaf in a saucepan, lay the fish on top in a single layer and salt generously.

Bring to a simmer over medium heat, loosening the fish from the edges; once simmering stir and cook about a minute, until the fish firms but does not fall apart.

Turn off the heat, cover and let the fish sit in the hot milk five minutes.

Drain in a strainer set over a bowl, lifted clear of the hot milk, and chill.

Boil the russet potatoes in generously salted water until just soft and tender, checking early and often; drain very well.

Mash fairly smooth; season with salt, black pepper and cayenne; add the lemon zest, parsley, chives and a heaping spoonful of tartar sauce and mix thoroughly.

Flake the chilled fish over the top, not too small, and fold through.

Smooth the top, divide into four and form each quarter into a patty while still warm or room temperature.

Dust both sides with flour through a strainer; brush on one beaten egg in two halves with a pastry brush; toss in panko until completely coated.

Cook right away or wrap and refrigerate.

Pan fry over medium heat in about a quarter inch of hot vegetable oil, three or four minutes per side, until golden brown, crispy and heated through. Drain on paper towel.

Serve with tartar sauce, a shake of cayenne, lemon, and watercress or a tomato and arugula salad.

Variation: for even browning deep fry three to four minutes at 350.