Brown butter chocolate chip cookies

Brown the butter in a saucepan over moderate, lowish heat, scraping and stirring constantly so the milk solids do not stick and burn.

Keep going past golden brown, a shade or two, until deeply brown but not black or acrid, then take it off the heat.

Stir in the cold heavy cream.

Cool the mixture over an ice bath in a metal bowl, stirring constantly so it stays homogenous, then whisk smooth.

Whisk in the granulated and dark brown sugars until smooth and homogenous; do not cream it light and fluffy.

Whisk in the eggs one at a time until incorporated and the mixture looks silkier.

Whisk in the vanilla extract.

Mix the flour, baking soda and kosher salt separately.

Chop half of each chocolate, keeping the dust, and leave the rest in discs.

Whisk the dry ingredients into the wet, then switch to a spatula and fold in all the chocolate.

Portion into two ounce scoops, level, onto a baking sheet; they can sit close together since they are only chilling.

Press a disc of chocolate onto the top of every couple of cookies.

Cover and age the dough in the fridge at least 12 and up to 48 hours; even a couple of hours helps. It can then be frozen.

Heat the oven to 350.

Bake six to a sheet at 350 for 18 to 20 minutes, rotating halfway, until the edge is golden brown and the interior pale and slightly shiny.

Cool on the baking sheet about five minutes, then transfer to a wire rack.