Brown butter mashed sweet potatoes

Rub the sweet potatoes all over with a little oil, salt and pepper.

Roast in an oven preheated to 325 degrees until completely tender, about an hour and a half; a cake tester, toothpick or knife should go through with no resistance.

Melt half a stick (four tablespoons) of butter in a pan and let it brown, swirling the pan so the water escapes without splattering, until the solids are hazelnut-coloured and nutty.

Slit the sweet potatoes down the middle and peel back the skin, with a spoon; let them cool first or wear gloves if too hot.

Add the potatoes to the browned butter, lower the heat and mash with a whisk, leaving them a little chunky (a food processor gives a smooth mash).

Add a dash of maple syrup and a little milk; season with a little salt.