Bucatini all'amatriciana

Cut the guanciale into strips about a couple of centimetres thick.

Put the guanciale in a pan over low heat to sweat out its fat slowly; add two chilies; shake the pan occasionally, always low heat.

Meanwhile break the San Marzano tomatoes by hand; some larger pieces are fine.

When the guanciale is done, turn off the heat, add the wine, then turn the heat back on and let it evaporate 30 to 40 seconds.

Add the tomatoes, rinsing the container with a little water into the pan; cook over medium-low heat with a small pinch of salt, stirring.

Cook until the sauce reduces and thickens and takes on its flavour; taking it off too early leaves watery juices with no taste.

Cook the bucatini in abundant salted water, al dente.

Drain the pasta into the pan with the sauce over heat and toss to bind.

Off the heat, toss again with a little pecorino; dust lightly on top and plate, spooning the pan contents over and finishing with a handful of pecorino.