Bucatini all'amatriciana

Cut the bacon (pancetta-style) into thick lardons and render it low and slow in a pan with a little olive oil.

Cook the bucatini in salted water in a wide, shallow skillet rather than a tall pot, for more concentrated starch in the pasta water.

Pour off some of the excess fat; add black pepper to bloom in the fat, and a little red pepper flakes to toast.

Add the San Marzano tomatoes, break them up in the pan, salt, and simmer as a quick pan sauce.

Cook the pasta a little shy of al dente (about two minutes under the box time) so it finishes in the sauce.

Take out some of the sauce if there is too much for the pasta; add the pasta, bring to a simmer, then turn off the heat and add a little pasta water.

Stir in Pecorino Romano, coarse fresh black pepper and some fresh olive oil until the sauce coats the pasta.

Plate with a little of the reserved sauce around, more pecorino and more black pepper.