Bucatini alla gricia

Cut the pancetta into about half-inch slices; it cuts best cold.

Start it in a skillet with a little olive oil and cook until crisp and brown outside but not fully rendered, leaving tender, chewy chunks; draining fat is optional.

Bring a low volume of water to a boil and salt it lightly, about half to one percent, since it will be reduced into the sauce.

Cook the bucatini until just shy of al dente and add it to the skillet with the pancetta; add plenty of coarse black pepper.

Splash in pasta water and keep it moving so the starchy water emulsifies the fat into a creamy sauce; reduce a little more.

Off the heat, add microplaned Pecorino Romano and toss quickly; loosen any clumping with more splashes of pasta water.

Serve with more cheese and pepper.