Buffalo cauliflower wings

Cut around the stem end with a paring knife to remove the core, leaving some intact to hold the florets.

Halve the head pole to pole, quarter, then eighth it, and cut each eighth into two inch chunks leaving stem on each piece.

Scoop the largest pieces off the top into a high sided container, leaving the crumbly bits behind.

Bring the water, vinegar, salt and sugar to a ripping boil in a saucepan, whisking to dissolve.

Pour the boiling brine over the raw florets to the top, cover and weigh them down, and leave one hour on the counter.

Drain off the pickling liquid and dab the florets dry on paper towel.

Whisk the buttermilk and hot sauce together in a medium bowl.

Whisk the all-purpose flour, rice flour, salt, baking powder, black pepper and paprika together in a second bowl.

Toss the florets in the flour in two halves so they are dusted but not caked, shaking off the excess.

Drop half the dusted florets into the buttermilk and toss to coat.

Lift them out with a slotted spoon into the dredge and coat evenly with tongs, letting a little buttermilk in so clumps of hydrated flour form; set on a sheet tray and repeat. Bread once only.

Heat two to three quarts of neutral oil in a six and a half quart dutch oven to 350F, 175C.

Simmer the hot sauce, Worcestershire and garlic in a small saucepan over medium low 10 to 15 minutes until reduced by about half.

Whisk in the cold butter over very low heat, constantly, so it emulsifies; add a tiny pinch of xanthan gum.

Lower half the florets in on a spider and fry one minute totally undisturbed, then nudge them apart and fry about three more minutes, four in total.

Lift onto a wire rack to drain and fry the second batch.

Toss two large handfuls at a time in a bowl with a long drizzle of the buffalo sauce.