Buffalo chicken Dutch babies

Melt a generous amount of butter in a pan over medium-high heat.

Lay in the chicken thighs smooth side down and brown 3 to 4 minutes; flip and brown the other side 3 to 4 minutes.

Turn off the heat, remove the chicken to a plate and rest until cool enough to handle; leave any browned bits in the pan.

Cut the chicken into roughly half-inch cubes on a board and return it to the plate with its juices.

Return the chicken and juices to the pan; season with kosher salt, black pepper and cayenne, and add the hot sauce.

Bring to a simmer over medium-high, then reduce to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, 10 to 15 minutes, dissolving the browned bits and reducing the sauce slightly.

Transfer the chicken to a bowl to cool.

Whisk the eggs, salt, all of the flour at once, and the milk for a few minutes to a smooth, relatively thin batter.

Rest the batter on the counter 15 to 20 minutes.

Grease the muffin tin generously with soft butter, optionally spray with non-stick oil, and wipe the rim spots.

Fill each cup a little less than halfway with batter from a pourable measuring cup, then top each up with a few more drops.

Spoon four or five chicken cubes into each cup.

Crumble about a teaspoon of blue cheese over each.

Variation: omit the blue cheese, or use another cheese or none, and serve with blue cheese dressing on the side or spooned in.

Put the tin in the centre of a cold oven with a pan underneath for drips, set the heat to 450, and bake about 30 minutes until browned.

Let them cool in the pan about 5 minutes as the centres collapse, then lift out with a fork onto a baking rack.

Serve warm or at room temperature, garnished with a celery stick.