Butter chicken

Cut each chicken thigh into three big chunks.

Pound the ginger and garlic to a fine paste in a mortar and pestle (or grate on a microplane) and scrape it onto the chicken.

Add full fat yogurt, salt, garam masala, ground coriander, turmeric, paprika, smoked paprika and cayenne; mix well.

Marinate at least half an hour, or up to a day ahead.

Set the chicken on a rack over a roasting pan with a touch of water in the bottom to catch the juices without burning; keep the pieces in the center.

Broil on high four to five inches from the element until one side is charred, then flip and char the other side; it need not be cooked through. Add a splash more water if the pan dries out.

Blend the canned diced tomatoes with onion, ginger and garlic until smooth.

Melt butter; add garam masala, paprika or Kashmiri chili powder, optional cayenne, and a little cloves and cardamom, and let them sizzle about 10 seconds over not too high heat.

Add the tomato sauce right away and let it reduce and concentrate until thick and the butter starts separating, covering with a splatter guard or a metal sieve.

Add the whipping cream, season with salt and brown sugar, and add a little kasuri methi, saving some for the end.

Add the chicken with all its collected juices and heat through, seven to 10 minutes, adding a splash of water if too thick.

Taste and adjust with lemon juice and salt.

Add sliced green chilies without cooking them in; garnish with extra fenugreek leaves, a few green chilies and a drizzle of whipping cream. Serve with rice or naan.