Butter chicken

Whisk the yogurt, garam masala and kosher salt together in a medium bowl until thoroughly combined.

Slice the chicken thighs into even bite-sized pieces about one inch thick.

Toss the chicken in the yogurt marinade until thoroughly coated, cover with plastic wrap and marinate at least 30 minutes, ideally overnight. The marinade can be skipped but makes a flavour difference.

Heat the vegetable oil in a large deep pan over medium-high heat until shimmering.

Sear the marinated chicken in batches without crowding, two to three minutes, then flip and sear another two minutes to golden brown and lightly charred; do not cook through.

Clear the pan, add a touch more oil, lower the heat to medium and add the diced onion, diced ginger and sliced garlic. Season with kosher salt and black pepper.

Cook and stir, scraping the bottom; add a small splash of water to loosen a thick fond and cook the water off again.

Saute the vegetables about three minutes until softened.

Add the paprika, cumin, garam masala and turmeric and toast the spices one to two minutes, until intensely fragrant.

Add the canned crushed tomatoes, then swirl 160 ml of water in the can and add that too; stir until evenly incorporated.

Bring to a simmer on medium and reduce five to eight minutes, until the sauce has reduced about 30 percent.

Optionally smooth the sauce with a hand blender; passing it through a chinois after blending gives a very fine, silky sauce.

Return the chicken to the pan, distribute through the sauce and simmer another three to five minutes until cooked through and hot.

Pour in the heavy cream, stir together, bring to a light simmer, drop the heat to low and simmer no more than three to four minutes, stirring often.

Off the heat, stir in the unsalted butter, stirring continuously as it melts so it emulsifies properly. Taste and adjust the salt.

Serve in a shallow bowl over steamed rice with extra sauce and fresh cilantro leaves.