Butter pecan ice cream

Brown the butter over moderate heat, watching closely so it does not burn; do not turn the heat up high.

Meanwhile whisk the egg yolks until a little lighter in colour.

Add the brown sugar to the brown butter and cook until it breaks down and is no longer grainy; it will look smooth and separated from the butter.

Turn the heat to low and slowly add the cold milk and cream mixture in a pan big enough to contain the splatter; the sugar will seize, then melt as it heats.

Bring to a slight simmer, bubbling at the edges; do not boil or it will split.

Temper the yolks by whisking in a little of the hot cream mixture, about a couple of cups, then add them to the pan.

Cook over low heat a good 8 to 10 minutes, without raising the heat, until thick enough that a finger drawn across the back of a wooden spoon leaves a clean line.

Stir in a pinch of salt and a splash of vanilla; pass through a sieve to catch any curdled egg.

Cover with plastic wrap touching the surface, cool, and refrigerate overnight; freeze the ice cream machine insert overnight if it requires it.

Churn in the ice cream machine, about 30 minutes for a two quart machine.

Chop the pecan halves and toast them in a little butter with a pinch of salt; finish with a sprinkle of salt.

Add the pecans in the last few minutes of churning and let them incorporate.

Freeze about an hour to set. Eat within a couple of days, since without stabilizers it turns icy.