Buttermilk-brined crispy fried chicken

In a large bowl or bag mix 1 quart buttermilk, about 3 tablespoons hot sauce and 1 tablespoon salt (pickle juice optional).

Add the bone-in chicken; brine at least half an hour, usually overnight, covered in the fridge.

Heat 3 inches of peanut or vegetable oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat, slowly rising to 340F.

Set up two rimmed baking sheets with wire racks, one bare and one lined with a double layer of paper towels.

Whisk together 360 g flour, 80 g cornstarch, 1 tablespoon onion powder, 1 tablespoon salt, 2 teaspoons black pepper, and optionally 1 teaspoon cayenne, 1 teaspoon smoked paprika, a scant teaspoon mustard powder and 2 teaspoons garlic powder.

Shake excess buttermilk off each piece, dredge in the flour, shake off the excess and set on the bare rack.

For crunchy bits, drizzle about 2 tablespoons of the buttermilk brine into the dredge and mix.

Watch the oil; if it gets too hot too fast turn it down or off, or the outside browns while the inside stays raw.

When the oil reaches 340F, dredge each piece lightly a second time and fry in batches, keeping the oil near 340F.

Fry until golden brown and 165F at the thickest part: breasts about 15 minutes, thighs around 12, wings and drums 7 to 10.

If big pieces brown too much before reaching temperature, finish on a rack over a rimmed baking sheet in a 350F oven for 10 to 20 minutes.

Drain on the paper-towel rack and serve immediately; reheat leftovers in an air fryer or oven.