Butternut squash and feta phyllo pie (spiral and strudel)

Toss the squash on a baking tray with olive oil, salt and pepper and bake on the center rack at 400F about 20 minutes, until fork tender.

Cook the finely chopped onion in about a quarter cup of olive oil with a pinch of salt over medium heat until soft and golden, five or six minutes.

Soak the thinly sliced scallions in water, lift into a strainer, add to the onions and cook about two minutes.

Add the still-warm squash, a pinch of red pepper flakes, about a teaspoon of dry thyme, the crumbled feta and the chopped parsley; optionally the juice of half an orange and some zest.

Mix gently so the squash holds its shape; taste and adjust with salt and black pepper.

Melt the butter and brush it inside a springform pan set on a baking pan.

For the spirals: layer two filo sheets, drizzling each with melted butter, spread filling across the bottom edge, and roll up carefully; repeat.

Coil the rolls around the inside of the pan, breaking them where they meet, and brush with melted butter; sesame seeds optional.

Variation, strudel-style: layer buttered sheets on a small baking tray, pile the remaining filling in the center, fold the edges over and butter them, top with more buttered sheets, tuck the edges under, and cut slits on top.

Bake on the middle rack at 400F until golden and crisp, about 45 minutes for the spiral and about 30 for the strudel.

To freeze: freeze solid, then wrap in plastic wrap or a freezer bag; bake the same way until golden and crisp.