Cacio e pepe

In a 10-inch pan, not a pot, on max heat, add just enough water to submerge a portion of spaghetti; bring to a boil. Salt very lightly or not at all, since everything concentrates.

Boil the spaghetti in as little water as possible, keeping it moving almost continuously so it cooks evenly and does not stick; add a little more water only if needed.

When the pasta is almost soft enough, kill the heat and wait until the bubbling stops, so the cheese does not boil and go grainy.

Cover with a thick blanket of finely grated cheese and a preliminary grind of pepper; stir aggressively until the cheese melts in smoothly.

Mix in a little extra water so it is not too thick once it cools on the plate; serve in the bowl with fresh pepper on top.

Variation: cook the spaghetti in just enough low-sodium stock to submerge it, pressing long pasta gently in as the tips soften; stir mainly in the second half and add more stock as needed.

Variation: after about 10 minutes taste; when almost done, kill the heat and wait for the bubbling to stop or slow, add pepper, then the finely grated cheese and rosemary, and stir aggressively to avoid cheese chunks.