Cacio e pepe

Finely grate the pecorino romano and freshly grind the black pepper.

Boil the pasta in a large pot with just enough water and no salt, to keep the water very starchy.

Cook the pasta two minutes less than the packet time (11 minutes for a 13-minute pasta).

Toast the ground pepper in a pan over low heat, tossing gently, one to two minutes.

Add a little pasta water and cook another minute on low; add more so the pepper does not stick, and let it reduce. Take off the heat.

Mix the pecorino with a little water, adding more gradually, into a smooth cream.

Move the pasta into the pepper pan, add pasta water generously and finish cooking two minutes over medium-high heat, stirring and tossing (risottare) until the water turns to a syrup.

Switch off the heat, add the cheese cream and toss, setting the pan over the pot of steaming water to keep the bottom warm.

Off the stove, add more pecorino and freshly ground pepper and toss until thick and creamy.

Plate, spoon the cream from the pan over, and finish with more pecorino and pepper.