Cacio e pepe

Bring a small amount of water to a boil in a skillet and salt it; the salt can go in when the water goes on.

Add the bucatini and stir well at the beginning so it does not stick. A smaller volume of water makes starchier pasta water.

Put olive oil in a second skillet. Grind black pepper coarsely in a mortar (or use a pepper mill) and add it to the oil.

Bloom the pepper in the oil with a little butter to infuse the oil; shut off the heat before it burns.

Cook the pasta to a little less than al dente, still a little raw in the very centre, not mushy.

Add butter to the pepper pan and transfer the pasta without draining, with a little extra pasta water.

Add more pasta water and grate in the cheese; the starchy water keeps the cheese from clumping and makes a creamy emulsified sauce.

Add toasted and fresh pepper and a little fresh olive oil, and cook vigorously about a minute until the pasta is done. If the sauce breaks and looks oily, add more pasta water.

Serve topped with more fresh cracked pepper and extra cheese.