Cacio e pepe corn chowder

Optional: put the stripped corn cobs, halved to fit, in the chicken broth with cold water; bring to a simmer on high.

Once boiling, reduce to low and simmer gently about an hour.

Cook diced pancetta in olive oil in a soup pot over medium heat, stirring, 4 or 5 minutes until the fat renders and it starts to crisp; reserve a spoon or two for garnish.

Raise to medium-high; add butter and about a cup of diced onions (scallions and shallots here), then diced celery and plenty of minced garlic, and a big pinch of salt to draw out moisture; cook a few minutes, stirring.

Sprinkle in flour and stir to a roux; cook a couple of minutes to remove the raw pasty edge.

Whisk in cold milk (hot roux, cold milk, no lumps), then remove the cobs and whisk in the broth.

Return to a simmer, then reduce to medium-low and simmer at least 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender.

Add 4 cups fresh corn, raise to medium and cook about 10 minutes so the corn stays a touch crunchy; optionally a couple shakes of cayenne.

Taste and season carefully, since the pecorino is salty; turn off the heat.

Stir in sliced green onion tops, coarsely ground pepper and coarsely grated pecorino; taste for final salt.

Ladle into bowls; top with briefly sauteed reserved corn, more grated cheese, reserved pancetta, green onions and black pepper.