Cacio e pepe, one pan one portion

Bring about two liters of water to a boil in a large shallow pan.

Salt the water with two generous pinches and drop in 115 grams of spaghetti.

Heat a 10 inch saute pan over medium high, add the olive oil and the coarsely ground black pepper.

Fry the pepper in the oil about 30 seconds until it just smells toasty, then kill the burner and move the pan to the back of the stove to cool.

At al dente, about nine minutes, lift the pasta over with tongs, carrying pasta water with it, and scoop in about 60 grams more.

Off heat, swirl in half the cold butter until emulsified, then the other half, tossing constantly.

Add another 30 grams of pasta water so the sauce is loose but opaque, then add the grated Pecorino Romano.

Toss and shake to distribute the cheese, adding a splash of pasta water as it tightens.

If white spots of unmelted cheese remain, put the burner on its lowest setting for about 15 seconds; a pan that is too hot seizes the cheese and breaks the sauce.

Twirl the pasta into a nest with tongs, plate it, and finish with grated aged parmesan and a ton of fresh cracked black pepper.