Camarones a la diabla (shrimp in guajillo chile sauce)

Sauté the head-on, shell-on shrimp in a little oil and butter in a skillet; when about half done add thin onion rings.

When the onions are crisp-tender, add the sauce.

Break the tops off the guajillo chilies, tear them open and shake out the seeds. Toast them, with a few arbol chilies, on a medium-heat griddle, pressing down with a spatula, about 10 to 15 seconds until they change colour slightly and may smoke a little.

Cover the toasted chilies with hot tap water and soak about 30 minutes to rehydrate; drain.

Roast garlic cloves on the back of the griddle about 15 minutes until soft, then slip off the papery skins.

Blend the chilies with a slice of white onion, the roasted garlic, cumin, black pepper and Mexican oregano ground in a mortar, and a little water until very smooth.

Press through a medium mesh sieve to catch bits of skin.

Fry the purée in a pan filmed with a little oil over medium-high heat until it has the consistency of tomato paste.

Add broth or water and simmer about 20 minutes; season with a little salt and add hot sauce to taste.