Camarones a la diabla tacos

Pull the stems from the guajillo chiles, tear them open, remove the seeds and seed pod, and tear into flat pieces.

Toast the pieces in a dry skillet over medium, pressing with a metal spatula and flipping, until they lighten inside and smell aromatic.

Cover with hot tap water, weight them down and soak about 20 minutes until soft and pliable.

Drain into a blender jar; taste the soaking liquid and, if bitter, use fresh water instead, about a third of a cup. Add the garlic.

Crush the cumin and black pepper to a powder in a molcajete with the Mexican oregano; add to the blender with a quarter of the onion, thinly sliced.

Blend until smooth; with a standard blender, pass through a medium mesh strainer.

Coat a pan over medium heat with oil and add all the puree; fry it, stirring regularly, about four more minutes until darkened and as thick as tomato paste.

Add the rest of the water and simmer over very low heat about 20 minutes, to the consistency of a marinara sauce.

Season with a good teaspoon of salt and a teaspoon of sugar; taste and add about a quarter teaspoon more salt.

Stir in 3 tablespoons of Mexican hot sauce, adding more for a spicier sauce.

Melt butter in a hot pan until it starts to brown; add the dried shrimp and toss about a minute until mostly opaque.

Pour in the sauce and cook a minute or two, stirring, until the sauce reduces a little.

Fill the tortillas with the shrimp; top with the rinsed sliced onion and cilantro leaves and squeeze lime over.