Campfire carnitas

Cut the boneless pork shoulder into chunks of about two inches; do not trim the fat.

Double up two foil pans and transfer the pork in.

Season generously with kosher salt, black pepper and a big spoon of Mexican oregano; mix and massage by hand until every piece is evenly coated, and spread evenly.

Top with sliced onion, a half-seeded chili and whole unpeeled garlic cloves.

Cover tightly with heavy-duty foil, then wrap two or three larger pieces underneath and up over, turning the pan between pieces and finishing with the folds facing up so oil cannot leak out.

Light the biggest pieces of lump charcoal; when the edges are white, move the coals to the outside of the grill to make space for the pan.

Set the pan in the center, put a foil-wrapped pan on top and transfer a few coals onto it so heat comes from all directions.

Cover and close the vents almost all the way to hold about 275 degrees near the pan (250 to 300 is the sweet spot) for four to five hours; by a campfire, move the pan nearer or farther instead.

Every so often lift the lid to let in oxygen and reposition the coals. Keep the pan near the fire, never in it.

After about five hours remove the top coals and the pan; rest up to an hour or eat right away, watching for steam burns when opening.