Candied yams (sweet potatoes baked in brown sugar butter glaze)

Peel the sweet potatoes, removing the skin and the tougher outer layer.

Trim the tips and cut into uniform half-inch slices ('coins'); set aside.

Can be made days ahead: bake and refrigerate then rewarm, or prep and bake later.

Stir melted butter with brown sugar, cinnamon, freshly grated nutmeg and a pinch of salt into a glaze.

Variation: add a couple tablespoons of orange juice, orange zest, a couple tablespoons of bourbon or rum, or some vanilla.

Layer the coins with the glaze in the dish, repeating once more; it need not be perfect since it is tossed during baking.

Cover with foil so the yams do not dry out and bake at 350 for 25 minutes.

Toss gently to distribute the juices, then bake uncovered another 20 minutes or so until very tender and glossy, spooning the liquid over at least once more.