Cantonese braised shiitake sauce

Wash the dried shiitake to get out any stray grit, then soak in cool water at least 6 hours and up to 24.

Squeeze out the shiitake, slice out the stems and reserve the soaking liquid.

Over a medium low flame fry two tablespoons of lard with an inch of smashed ginger and the whites of two scallions until fragrant, about thirty seconds.

Swap the flame to high, add the reconstituted shiitake, mix thirty seconds, swirl in a tablespoon of Shaoxing wine and mix again.

Add two cups of the shiitake soaking liquid and the scallion greens tied in a knot, bring to a boil then down to a simmer with half a teaspoon of sugar and one and a half tablespoons of oyster sauce.

Cook and reduce over medium low for 45 minutes, covered in a wok or with the lid ajar in a tighter pot.

Remove the ginger and scallion and move the mushrooms to a serving bowl, leaving roughly one cup of liquid.

Thicken with a slurry of half a tablespoon of cornstarch and an equal amount of water, adding more if needed, taste, and season with another eighth teaspoon of salt; pour over the mushrooms.

To serve as lo mein, oil cooked noodles with a teaspoon of toasted sesame oil or melted lard, top with a tablespoon of oyster sauce and about three tablespoons of the braised shiitake sauce.

To serve as a vegetable topping, blanch one small head of broccoli in bubbling water with a teaspoon of salt and oil for two minutes, strain, arrange with a small pile in the middle, add the shiitakes and pour the sauce over.