Cantonese Whampoa scrambled eggs, with a char siu and yellow chive variation

Separate the eggs (optional); whisk the whites until foamy with big bubbles, not to a meringue.

When ready to cook, combine whites and yolks briefly; add salt, sugar, white pepper, MSG, Shaoxing wine, toasted sesame oil and the cornstarch slurry, which keeps the egg moist and prevents overcooking. Whisk again until bubbles show.

Heat the wok piping hot, shut off the heat and add the lard; heat over a high flame until it bubbles around a pair of chopsticks.

Add the egg; as it puffs, take the wok off the flame and scoop from the bottom, laying it on top.

Return to the flame until little bubbles form at the edges, about ten seconds, then off again and layer, letting the uncooked egg drain off; repeat until all the egg is cooked.

Variation, nonstick skillet on an electric stove: melt the lard over high heat until it bubbles around chopsticks, add the egg, pull cooked bits to one side with only the uncooked side over the burner, wait about ten seconds for bubbles and fold the cooked side over; repeat, lifting off the heat if too hot. Cut in half and stack for height.

Variation, add-ins: toast the sliced yellow chives in a dry wok over medium about two minutes until slightly wilted and fragrant; fry the sliced char siu over medium about a minute.

Without separating the eggs, whisk about a minute until obvious bubbles; season as before, whisk, add the add-ins and cook by either method.